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nc319404
Four of a Kind
Joined: 29 Apr 2008
Posts: 306
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 Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 12:43 am Post subject: general discussion of starting hands in pot limit vs. limit |
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| I play mainly limit omaha 8 just wondering on what differences i should make in my starting hand strategy and flop play in pot limit. Any general suggestions would be hopefully. |
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Zophar
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Joined: 26 Oct 2005
Posts: 3338
Location: East Coast
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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As in anything else, position is critical when determining what hand ranges you can add. Also, 6max vs FR can make a huge difference. Most of my play is in 6max, so that's what most of my discussion pertains to.
Given that, in later positions(CO & BTN) I'd add alot of the weaker A2 combo's(A299, etc) and the marginal A3/A4 combo's(A357, A310J, A456, A410J, etc.). QQxx/KKxx both ss+ w/xx being either coordinated babies or or coordinated high cards also become much stronger. Hands like QQ34+, KK45+, even JJ23ss+ is part of that group, along w/QQJK, KKJ10etc.
Pretty much the hands to always avoid are the 5678, 6789, 7788, 8899, etc. These hands are great in PLO, but bad in PLO8.
Because of the ability to felt opponents, something you don't have in limit, the range is a bit broader. Just try to know your opponents ranges and have some redraws on your made flop hands. Also, be aware of possible quarters/counterfeits, they are MUCH more costly in PL. |
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speedracer75
Pair
Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 29
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| Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 7:22 am Post subject: Re: general discussion of starting hands in pot limit vs. limit |
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| nc319404 wrote: |
| I play mainly limit omaha 8 just wondering on what differences i should make in my starting hand strategy and flop play in pot limit. Any general suggestions would be hopefully. |
Be very wary of playing (or drawing to) non-nut flush hands. While it doesn't cost you very much (a couple of big bets) if you hit your 2nd or 3rd nut flush in limit O8, it can KILL you in PLO8. A heads up cost example, assuming the opponent has the nuts and is raising the max, and you have 2nd or 3rd nuts and are making crying calls:
HU limit O8 (using $3-$6 as an example):
preflop (just calling blinds): $6 pot
flop: bet, call (+$6, $12 total pot)
turn: bet, call (+$12, $24 total pot)
river: bet, call (+$12, $36 total pot)
HU PLO8 (using $0.50-$1 ($100 max buy in) as an example):
preflop (just calling blinds): $2 pot
flop: bet, call (+$4, $6 total pot)
turn: bet, call (+$12, $18 total pot)
river: bet, call (+$36, $54 total pot)
I used these amounts for examples because I think you'll find about the same level of competition at these stakes.
So as you can see, without raising, it's usually cheaper to see the flop and even call a flop bet, but calling the turn and river is where it starts to get you when you're drawing dead. If you want to include raising (as I'm sure you may be inclined to raise with a 2nd nut flush), it gets even MORE expensive if you're not disciplined enough to lay it down to a big raise... example:
HU PLO8 (using $0.50-$1 ($100 max buy in) as an example):
preflop (just calling blinds): $2 pot
flop: bet $2, raise +$6 to $8, re-raise +$18 to $26, call (+$52, $54 total pot)
turn, river: you're basically pot-committed at this point, so I'm assuming with any bet you'll be all in for your $100 buy-in.
So you see, with a little pot limit raising action, you can get pushed all in rather quickly. even if you raise and get re-raised but NOT the pot limit, it still builds quickly, because of the larger amounts that can be now bet on the turn and river... when this happens, you best be holding the nuts rather than the 2nd nuts...
And as a side note, if you're holding the nut ace (but no help), you can often bluff to win a pot, since you know no one else has the nut flush... it's never that way in limit O8! |
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nc319404
Four of a Kind
Joined: 29 Apr 2008
Posts: 306
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| Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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| thanks for your tips guys......always appreciate good help |
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