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Online Poker Forum - Short Handed Stud

 
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Strasse
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 5120
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:00 pm    Post subject: Short Handed Stud Reply with quote

Some of the common mistakes that I see people making when they play stud shorthanded is that they try and play too many hands to compensate for it being shorthanded. What they fail to notice is that as the number of players decreases, the amount of money in the pot to start also decreases, due to the ante structure of stud. In holdem, this is not the case, because there will always be a big blind and a small blind, and consequently, you really should open up your game a lot more. In stud however, the amount of hands you play should increase only the slightest bit. Whenever you pick up a good hand, you will most likely get payed off, since everyone else will be playing lots of hands, since they think that's what they need to be doing.

I also see lots of people playing their door card too often, and too strong. They will take a hand like (42)Q and bet the whole hand, losing a lot of money when their opponent calls them down, which will be quite often, due to the aforementioned increase in the # of hands they play. Instead, you should play your opponents door cards, not just yours. For example, if all your opponents are showing door cards 7 or below, you can take a hand like (JK)8, one which you normally wouldn't play full handed, and play it quite strong, since all 3 of your cards are above any of your opponents.

Finally, the last major mistake I notice from people is that they don't know when to slow down(I myself am guilty of this quite often too). Like I said, people will call you down far more often shorthanded, since they think you are one of the people playing too many hands. Therefore, when you start w/ the (KJ)8 in the last example, if you catch something like 53, and someone with a 4 door card is still calling, you can slow down and try to take a free card to catch a pair. It is usually still good to bet 5th street if your oppenent catches seemingly unhelpful cards, since the bet doubles here, and many people will call up until 5th to try and catch a small two pair, and fold if they don't. I will sometimes try to take the free card on 4th, if I think they will continue calling me. If I don't take it then, and they call my bet on 5th, I will definately take it on 6th if I havne't caught anything by then, since they will almost certainly call a bet on 6th if they called on 5th.

This post was made for the benefit of byamamoto, but discussion is of course welcome.
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byamamoto1
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Joined: 11 Aug 2005
Posts: 2189

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so in terms of opening your game up without overplaying your hand ala the (24)Q example, what sort of hands go up in value. what sort of hands should you defend with the bring-in? for example if i have say (AQ)3 showing and an opponent completes with a 9, is this a hand i toss or should i try taking a shot that my hand may be at this point marginally better or has a chance to beat my opponents? In general what kind of hands will you play from the bring-in?
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Strasse
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
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Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

byamamoto1 wrote:
so in terms of opening your game up without overplaying your hand ala the (24)Q example, what sort of hands go up in value. what sort of hands should you defend with the bring-in? for example if i have say (AQ)3 showing and an opponent completes with a 9, is this a hand i toss or should i try taking a shot that my hand may be at this point marginally better or has a chance to beat my opponents? In general what kind of hands will you play from the bring-in?


Live overcards are the key in defending your bring in. If you have 1 overcard, it is generally not worth defending, if you have 2, it is a sometimes defend. I am not really a defending type, I generally like to let them think they can walk over me, so that when I pick up a monster, I can trap them. However, if you so choose to defend, it is better to be the aggressor rather than the caller. Go for a check raise on 4th or 5th, because even if they have nothing, if you continue to just call, you give them the opportunity to catch something. Generally, if you check raise, and they call, you should follow it up w/ atleast 1 more bet. I've noticed that many people are too hard headed to give up absolutely nothing when they are checkraised, but if you bet again, they will give it up.

In terms of what hands go up in value, medium and high straight hands, even if they have 1 or even 2 gaps. Hands like 79J, QJ8, stuff like that go way up, but ONLY when low door cards are out. If people behind you have A,K,A, then just muck those hands. Hands that go down in value are low straight and low flush hands. These hands are profitable in multi way pots, which are rare in short handed, so I generally try to just limp and catch a nice 4th street. If there is a raise in front of me from a high card, I will muck them most of the time.
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Zophar
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Joined: 26 Oct 2005
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Location: East Coast

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think another group of hands that increase here are smaller pairs w/big kickers. Granted a pair of 10's w/an A kicker are ok full, but now a pair of 5's w/a Q kicker or 6's or 7's w/J kicker become ALOT stronger.

I'd also add that big concealed pairs become monsters and can be slow played well into 5th street, something I don't think is as advisible at full ring.
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mathman1115
Wizard of Odderation


Joined: 01 Sep 2005
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Location: Land of the Fightin' Phillies

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good OP Strasse. When i do play stud and it starts to get shorthanded, i usually sit out lol. I hate shorthanded poker games, especially stud. One of the things that attracted me to stud are the large pots, which, like you said, won't happen in a short handed game.

One question, which Zophar touched on slightly. Say you are shorthanded, 3 or 4 players, and you start with a monster, like rolled up 222-999 or a pair of aces with a big card. Should we still play these strong, to make our opponent "think" we are attempting to represent a big hand, hopefully having them play back at us? Or do we slowplay, let them catch up, and then attempt to get paid off in the later betting rounds (knowing there is a chance they can catch up too much and beat us out of a big pot)?
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Strasse
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
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Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mathman1115 wrote:
good OP Strasse. When i do play stud and it starts to get shorthanded, i usually sit out lol. I hate shorthanded poker games, especially stud. One of the things that attracted me to stud are the large pots, which, like you said, won't happen in a short handed game.

One question, which Zophar touched on slightly. Say you are shorthanded, 3 or 4 players, and you start with a monster, like rolled up 222-999 or a pair of aces with a big card. Should we still play these strong, to make our opponent "think" we are attempting to represent a big hand, hopefully having them play back at us? Or do we slowplay, let them catch up, and then attempt to get paid off in the later betting rounds (knowing there is a chance they can catch up too much and beat us out of a big pot)?


Aces I usually wouldn't slowplay, although you could do it occasionally. However, limping in with an ace showing in shorthanded will seem very weird. It would be better to do it if your aces are buried and you have a small to medium up card. The 222-999, I think it depends on what everyone else is showing, and what position you are in. If a bunch of people are already in before you, you obviously don't need to slowplay, because once people are in the pot, its hard to get them out. If people have some good looking upcards, no need to slowplay, since its likely someone will have a hand they might want to play, especially since they are opening up their hand selection. You might raise w/ 444, and someone might try to push you off your hand w/ KJ9. If you have the highest upcard, but its only like 777, this might be the time to slowplay. Let someone in cheaply w/ something like a pair of 3s, and hope he hits two pair or trips. I definately slowplay less than other people, and hardly ever slowplay when I can be outdrawn by 1 card in stud. I usually will only slowplay when it will take runner runner to beat me.
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byamamoto1
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Joined: 11 Aug 2005
Posts: 2189

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not necessarily short handed but down to 5 players. Would you play this hand?? high card under over the table, and split pair 2's. Still a fold situation here?

Full Tilt Poker Game #2990084941: $5 + $0.50 Sit & Go (22825772), Table 1 - 250/500 Ante 40 - Limit Stud Hi - 23:39:58 ET - 2007/07/18
Seat 1: SF Fisherman (2,925)
Seat 4: burkee3 (2,495)
Seat 5: byamamoto1 (2,020)
Seat 7: deez349849 (2,630)
Seat 8: ShayKC (1,930)
SF Fisherman antes 40
burkee3 antes 40
byamamoto1 antes 40
deez349849 antes 40
ShayKC antes 40
*** 3RD STREET ***
Dealt to SF Fisherman [6c]
Dealt to burkee3 [4c]
Dealt to byamamoto1 [Qs 2h] [2d]
Dealt to deez349849 [9d]
Dealt to ShayKC [4d]
byamamoto1 is low with [2d]
byamamoto1 brings in for 75
deez349849 folds
ShayKC folds
SF Fisherman completes it to 250
burkee3 folds
byamamoto1 folds
Uncalled bet of 175 returned to SF Fisherman
SF Fisherman mucks
SF Fisherman wins the pot (350)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 350 | Rake 0
Seat 1: SF Fisherman collected (350), mucked
Seat 4: burkee3 folded on 3rd St.
Seat 5: byamamoto1 folded on 3rd St.
Seat 7: deez349849 folded on 3rd St.
Seat 8: ShayKC folded on 3rd St.
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spike420211
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Joined: 25 Apr 2007
Posts: 1424
Location: on your La-Z-Boy, raiding your fridge, playing with your remote

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

byamamoto,
1st of all, how'd u scare up 7 other guys for a 5.00 stud sitngo?
>on the hand history--this would be a weak/marginal call in a cash game:
in a tourney with the stack sizes as listed, good fold.
>for 222 thru 999... if anyone raises on third, re-raise, you'd be
surprised at the number of chasers you'll get with buried[concealed]
Q's, K's, and A's... if the field is still relatively large on 4th street [4 or 5
players+] don't bother with the slowroll, hopefully they're chasing
weak draws, but higher trips and boats can show up too.
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Strasse
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 5120
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spike420211 wrote:
byamamoto,
1st of all, how'd u scare up 7 other guys for a 5.00 stud sitngo?
>on the hand history--this would be a weak/marginal call in a cash game:
in a tourney with the stack sizes as listed, good fold.
>for 222 thru 999... if anyone raises on third, re-raise, you'd be
surprised at the number of chasers you'll get with buried[concealed]
Q's, K's, and A's... if the field is still relatively large on 4th street [4 or 5
players+] don't bother with the slowroll, hopefully they're chasing
weak draws, but higher trips and boats can show up too.


I disagree w/ you here, In a tourney, it is a marginal call, but in a cash game, it is a must call. Your cards are completely live, not to mention its possible your 2s are good, since notices there are two 4s out, which means some of their cards are dead. If you weren't the bring in, it might be a marginal call, but since you are already invested in the bring in, it would be a must call in cash, and a marginal call in a tournament.
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spike420211
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Joined: 25 Apr 2007
Posts: 1424
Location: on your La-Z-Boy, raiding your fridge, playing with your remote

PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i stand corrected on the must call for the cash game,Strasse. In this particular scenario for a tourney, byamamoto may be risking too much stack by chasing this.
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