Online Poker Forum - 6 max strategy post

AllInDrawinDead · Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 2:34 am Post subject: 6 max strategy post

I play mostly .50/$1 and $1/$2 6-max speed tables. I've found that these games are incredibly soft. With patience and the right strategy, they are beatable and very profitable. I'm going to treat this post like a work in progress. I will be updating it with hand histories that exemplify the principles here and everyone is welcome to contribute by replying and discussing.

Step 1: Table Selection

I like to find a game that has a large avg. pot size. I usually find the game with the largest pot size and sit down or waitlist for it. This means that there are likely loose players staying in the pot for too long and paying too much for draws. Exactly what I'm looking for. Also, speed tables allow less time for players to make decisions and I believe this leads them to make more bad decisions. Also, you get in more hands per hour which translates to a higher hourly rate.

Step 2: Sizing up your opponents

As soon as I sit down at the table I start paying attention to what kind of hands my opponents are playing. Use PokerTracker to get an idea of how aggressive/passive, loose/tight they are but also watch the actual hands. Size up who is calling every raise, cold calling three bets with marginal holdings, three betting often, etc. This information will help you make the right decision whether to call/fold/raise.

Step 3: Preflop play

At a loose gambling style game you will make money by playing better hands than your opponents, winning the max when you have it and getting off cheap when you are beat. I recommend that when you're the first to enter the pot you should be raising. If you're hands not strong enough to raise, fold. Exceptions to this rule coming later ITT. Also, you should rarely be flat calling a raise when you're not in the big blind. If you can call a raise, three bet to isolate. If you don't succeed in isolating that's also ok because you've built a nice pot to take down. Always raise/reraise with pairs 88+, AK & AQ. The hands I like to flat call with are AJo, A10s, KQ or 66 & 77. If you're in late position and the pot has already been opened and raised or there are lots of limpers I'll call the raise with small pairs or suited connectors. I will never call a raise heads up with these hands unless I'm in the big blind.

Here come the exceptions to my rule about not limping before the flop. If you're at a passive table (where most players AF is below 1, PR below 10) that is also loose (VPs over 50) I will open limp with small pairs and suited connecters UTG. I don't want to raise and have to fold the flop and I also don't want to get three bet and isolated out of position. I want to play a multiway pot. If someone raises behind you, that's OK because it will be called by others and you can see the flop. If you flop a set you'll be in great shape and if you flop a flush/straight draw you'll have good odds to draw at it. If the pot is raised and three bet behind you, it's ok to fold having invested only one bet. This is far better than raising and having to call a three bet or four bet then fold the flop.

Now that you've been at the table for a little while and have sized up your opponents you can begin to open up your game. By the time you have 50 hands logged in PT3 on your opponents you should have a good idea of their tendencies and can adjust your game accordingly. If the maniac is seated directly to my right I've hit the jackpot. That's exactly the situation you want to be in. I'll three bet ISO a maniac with all the top hands, the KQ and A10s but I also do it as light as any pair A8o, K-10, or QJ. I do this for the simple reason that they are likely raising a lot of junk on the button or small blind and marginal holdings like J-10 Q-10, K-9, A-rag or suited/unsuited connectors. These are hands I can not only beat but likely dominate. LHE is all about aggression and taking the lead in a hand. If you can isolate with a superior hand in a superior position and control the betting, you will make money in LHE.

coming soon: postflop play

AllInDrawinDead · Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 3:01 am Post subject:

These are hands where aggression and being the lead bettor won the pot.

Full Tilt Poker, $1/$2 Limit Hold'em Cash Game, 6 Players
LeggoPoker.com - Hand History Converter

Pre-Flop: A

K

dealt to Hero (BTN)
UTG calls, Hero raises, BB 3-bets, Hero caps, BB calls

Flop: (9.5 SB) 2

8

6

(2 Players)
BB bets, Hero raises, BB calls

Turn: (6.75 BB) 3

(2 Players)
BB checks, Hero bets, BB folds

Results: 6.75 BB Pot (0.25 BB Rake)
Hero mucked A

K

and WON 6.5 BB (+3.5 BB NET)

Full Tilt Poker, $1/$2 Limit Hold'em Cash Game, 5 Players
LeggoPoker.com - Hand History Converter

Pre-Flop: T

K

dealt to Hero (SB)
2 folds, BTN raises, Hero 3-bets, BB folds, BTN calls

Flop: (7 SB) 4

6

9

(2 Players)
Hero bets, BTN calls

Turn: (4.5 BB) 5

(2 Players)
Hero bets

Results: 4.5 BB Pot (0.13 BB Rake)
Hero mucked T

K

and WON 4.38 BB (+2.38 BB NET)

WhatASurprise · Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 5:41 pm Post subject:

Great thread.

mysteriouschef · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:30 am Post subject:

What do you think of my 6 max stats?

Vpip - 32%
PFR - 20%
AF - 2.1
Blind steal - 60%
C/R - 2.55%
3B - 5.11%
WTSD - 38%
W$SD - 53%
WWSD - 21%

I enjoy playing the LAG style and focusing more on post flop.

Anything seem out of the ordinary?

FWIW small sample size so far, only 3.5k hands.

AllInDrawinDead · Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:11 pm Post subject:

Edit: Here's my stats

VP: 33.9
PR: 18.6
AF: 2.02
3bet: 9.84

32/20 is actually right about where I think you want to be so keep it up.

Also, I have no idea what most of those other stats mean so if you could tell me that would be most helpful.

mysteriouschef · Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:06 pm Post subject:

I am more tagish for FR but for 6 max I think 32/20 is pretty good if you are competent enough to play post flop.

DforDissent · Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 3:57 pm Post subject: Re: 6 max strategy post

AllInDrawinDead · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:41 am Post subject:

I was in Las Vegas from July 7 - July 13 and therefore didn't have time update this post. However, as promised here is the section on 6-max flop play.

The Flop

In this section I will cover a few different scenarios. First, one where you're in position against a single opponent. Then, one in which you are against a single opponent out of position. Finally, a situation in which you're in a multiway pot. Let's begin.

If you've isolated a weaker player with a strong holding and superior position, congratulations. This is what winning poker is all about. You haven't scooped the pot yet, but you're in a favorable position. Take advantage. Since you most likely took the lead preflop by raising or 3-betting you should continue to act as if your hand is still best until your opponent's actions suggest otherwise. The flop is the time to ram and jam overpairs, top pairs and monster drawing hands like 2 overs + FD or OESD+FD type hands.

Don't be afraid to be aggressive here. If you raised or 3-bet preflop you simply have to fire a continuation bet even if you miss or don't like the flop. If you're opponent donk bets into you, it's usually a good idea to raise. If you get check/raised for two bets, make it three bets. Yes you will be beat and will lose some extra bets here but you get more value by being aggressive in the long run. The flop is not the time to go into a defensive check/call mode at the first sign of resistance.

When I'm out of position heads-up I rarely donk bet into the PF raiser. Instead I opt to go for a check/raise then lead the turn. Being first to act takes away your ability to raise for a free card with a draw or to check behind with marginal holdings hoping to improve. Without position you're going to pay for every card unless you're up against a very weak opponent. I recommend being a little tighter when out of position and being a bit more liberal when in position.

In heads-up situations it's also advisable to continue with pocket pairs when a single overcard hits the board. 6-max players in general play looser than FR players so they can be calling you down with middle/bottom pair or A hi. It's a good idea to extract value from the on the flop and turn and sometimes the river. Remember that this is all read dependant and that you'll get a better feel for your opponents by playing with them and by experience. I feel that if you're the one leading the betting you most likely have the best hand. If your opponent takes the lead from you, you're probably beat. Although not 100% reliable, this is a good general rule. Betting is power. When two or more overcards hit the flop I'll usually fire one c-bet and give up unless I have a read that tells me to do otherwise.

In a multiway pot I suggest you pick your spots carefully. The more players go to the flop, the more likely someone caught a piece of it. It's really that simple. Obviously, still ram and jam your top pairs and overpairs for value but be less willing to continue with middle pair on the board or a pocket pair with overcards. Chances are someone has one of the key cards to beat you. These are the best spots to play drawing hands because there is more money in the spot and it will often be +EV to try to hit OESD and FD.

I don't recommend firing multiple bets as a bluff in LHE for the reason that each bet has a better price than the last to call. I used to make the mistake of doing this and it was a major leak in my game. However, firing multiple bets with an unimproved AK or AQ because you're pretty sure your opponent has an inferior A hi or a draw is not a bluff it's a value bet. I don't recomment being as aggressive with the AK, AQ OOP for the reason that on the river if you check and your opponent bets it puts you in a ridiculous spot where if you call you'll most likely show down a losing hand and if you fold it looks strange to have been so aggressive then suddenly muck the river. That kind of thing hurts your table image. When in position however, you can C/C the river and show down your hand without putting in an extra bet if you don't improve.

Hope this was helpful. I'll be updating this post with hand histories and more on playing specific hands and discuccing board textures. In the meantime I'm issuing the following challenges. Post the hand histories here in the thread when you complete them.

1a. Three bet isolate with AK or AQ in position.
1b. Win the pot without improving your hand and without showdown.
1c. The pro play: Win the pot by showing down and without improving.

2a. Three bet isolate with a middle PP in position.
2b. Win the pot at showdown without making a set, straight or flush.
2c. The pro play: Bet the flop/turn for value with an overcard to your pair. Extra credit: bet the river for value.

AllInDrawinDead · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:41 pm Post subject:

Table Image

They say that perception is reality, therefore how your opponents percieve your play is extremely important. It is particularly important in short handed games where you are able to get a better feel for your opponents than you would in a full game. This does not apply to the lowest limits where no one is likely to pay attention to your play. The idea your opponents have of you will determine how much value you get from big hands and how often you can win pots without showdown.

Sometimes you will play tight, others you will play loose, but in the long run your stats should converge towards the 30/20/2.0 standard of a good aggressive player. you should always try to do the opposite of what your opponents expect you to do. If you've been sitting back for a while, open up your range. If you've been raising every pot and firing a c-bet every time, slow down. If you play the way your opponents expect you to play, their perception becomes reality and you will become who they think you are.

Don't ever fall into predictable patterns, you will never make money.

You must also be aware of the others around you. Ask yourself, are they who I think they are? Or have they adjusted their play since the beginning of the session? It is possible that you can punish an opponent so thoroughly that they are forced to make a strategy adjustment. You must be aware of the constantly evolving landscape that is your table and readjust accordingly. Then again, some players are wildly aggressive, others hopelessly loose and passive, and others are nits. They don't know how to play any other way. You should be different and take advantage of the patterns that others fall into and win as many bets as you can with that information.

I hope this helps. GL at the tables.

mysteriouschef · Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:31 pm Post subject:

WTSD = Went To Showdown

W$SD = Won money at showdown

WWSD = Won Without showdown

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